The majority of white wines should be considered "cooking" wine a few years after release. When the wine turns to a tawny color, it has taken on new flavors from its original release. There are a few gems out there that actually get better with some age. Chardonnay is one of the few white wine grapes that truly has potential to become more remarkable as it is aged.
Chardonnay took its roots from Burgundy in France. California adopted the Burgundian model of malolactic fermentation and oak age. Think about any of the traditional California style Chardonnay you have tasted... buttery with notes of vanilla right? Malolactic fermentation is a secondary fermentation that takes place to give the buttery effect in the wine. Malic acid is combined with lactic acid( think lactose - milk, butter). The vanilla component comes from racking the wine in oak barrels. Sometimes the oaky flavor is more subtle than others. French oak creates the vanilla and spice flavors. American oak has the same characteristics but are generally more overt and powerful.
I poured an amazing 2006 Chardonnay from Sonoma tonight and everyone commented on the subtlety of the oak. The guests did not realize the wine had been aged in Burgundian barrels. If you prefer a very oaky style, you may want to look for wine aged in American oak.
Another thought... if you love California Chardonnay, start looking for Sonoma. It can have equally high ratings as Napa Valley, costs less, and is the #1 grape varietal grown in that region. The cooler climate in the north is absolutely ideal for growing the grapes there.
Recommendations: Landmark Overlook Chardonnay: 2006 rated 90 pts by Robert Parker, 2007 rated 92 pts by Wine Spectator.
Perfect accompaniment: Lobster, seared scallops, or shrimp on the grill. Combine butter, lemon, and fresh herbs for a perfect summer meal.
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