Fun with Fish: Linguine with Clams and Cassavecchia

When I originally started posting about fish a few weeks ago, I envisioned the series to contain a few recipes. I really thought I'd be creating four different types of fillets and a sauce for each. The beauty of living on the East Coast has brought oodles(yes I just used that word) of fresh fish to local grocery stores and I have not been able to resist. In particular, shellfish has been much cheaper and readily available. Tonight, I had  planned on making a pasta dish with some frozen shrimp in a bag until I stumbled upon bin after bin of fresh clams. With bags full of clams and after a quick pit stop at the library for a french cookbook, I came home at 5 o'clock inspired and excited to cook.

One of the important tips I read about clams pertained to the cooking process. The famed chef Jacques Pepin compares clams to beef. Cook quickly over high heat for a few minutes or in a slow process like braised beef in a stew.  I found this to be very interesting. I had imagined making a broth and putting the clams in for about 20-30 minutes like I would for chicken. Apparently, if not cooked rapidly or over a few hours at a very low simmer, the clams become rubbery and tough. I have learned that cooking consists of three parts: flavor, process, and freshness of ingredients. Its truly amazing how a fresh salmon fillet with a bit of butter, parsley, lemon, and s&p can be deliciously flakey and tender if cooked at the right temperature and the right amount of time.

In addition to the tips I read about, I also took into account some personal experiences of eating shellfish at some of the best pubs in Philadelphia. A tavern called Monks has been accredited for their delicious mussels. Every time I eat there I am impressed by the spicy flavors in the broth and the fresh bread for dipping. I learned to not be deceived by a liquid broth that appears watery. One bite deep and I am pleasantly surprised by flavors of garlic, herbs, butter, and wine.

Considering I created a tomato based sauce, I felt that an Italian red wine seemed like a perfect pairing. I will always recognize Chianti Classico as a nice pairing; however, I also like to recommend something a little different for those that are a bit more adventurous. Campagnia in southern Italy has recently grown in popularity due to an increase in the quality of wines. Some interesting varietals worth trying are from the grapes Aglianico, Casavecchia, and Palagrello Nero. For this particular meal listed below, I enjoyed sipping on a young Cassavecchia with no oak. A rich purple color and notes of black cherry and earth, a wine that sips in perfect harmony with each bite.

Clams in a Tomato Broth with Linguine

• 3 tbsp unsalted butter
• 2-3 small red hot chili peppers sliced(depends on spice preference)
• 2 large cloves garlic minced
• 1/2 large yellow onion
• 1 cup dry white wine like Pinot Grigio
• 3 cups choppped roma tomato
• 1 1/2 - 2 cups good culinary chicken /vegetable stock
• 1 cup fresh basil chopped
• 1 tbsp fresh rosemary minced
• 1 tbsp fresh oregano minced
• 5 sprigs fresh thyme
• About 30 small clams rinsed
• 1/2 box linguine cooked for 8-10 minutes until al dente
• Shaved Parmesan
• Favorite fresh bread from local grocery store

All herbs are optional but fresh is key! Start by chopping pepper, onions, and garlic and cooking in a deep dish pot. Saute in half of the butter over medium heat until soft. Add white wine, salt and pepper and cook down for about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes, herbs, rest of the butter, and stock and cook on medium low heat for about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, heat pot of water to boiling and cook linguine. When pasta has 5-10 minutes remaining, add closed clams to broth over medium heat and put lid on top. After about 7 minutes, lift lid and turn off heat. Combine pasta with brothy sauce and clams. Serve with grated Parmesan, fresh bread, and Cassavecchia. Enjoy!